Neuchatel & Les Trois Lacs
Swiss Wine Regions
Four cantons and three lakes together make this small wine region in Switzerland. The Lake of Neuchâtel’s banks account for two thirds of total production. The vineyards stretch along the lake from Vaumarcus in the south, through Auvernier and as far as Neuchâtel and Cressier in the north. The other wines from the region come from the vineyards bordering the Lakes of Bienne (in the canton of Bern) and of Morat (in the Vully area, which is spread over the two cantons of Fribourg and Vaud).
The main red grape variety in the region is Pinot Noir which produces excellent red wines, as well as the superb Oeil de Perdrix, a choice and fruity rosé. The main white remains Chasselas. A few years ago Neuchâtel winemakers started making an unfiltered version which is increasingly popular.
The soil is calcareous that originates from the Jura. The ancient calcareous soils around Neuchâtel are not dissimilar to those of Chateau Chalon, 60 miles (100km) to the west in the French Jura. Most of the vineyards have light and stony soil, however there is also some marly and heavy soil, especially as you move towards Biel. Of course the vineyards close to the shore are of alluvial origin.
Neuchâtel as a whole is one of Switzerland's warmer viticultural areas. The climate is influenced by the three lakes, which prevent summer temperatures from rising dramatically and also dampens the effects of frost and snow in winter. The winters are mild and there is mist in the autumn. The area has a rather dry, windy climate that enjoys about 1,700 hours of sunshine in a year.
Neuchâtel has an average rainfall of around 1,000mm (39 inches) per year. Because it is not quite as warm nor as reliably sunny as the central Valais, vineyard location is important. To maximise the vines' exposure to sunshine, they are mostly planted on the northern banks of the lakes, where the south-easterly aspect brings them warming rays all through the morning and early afternoon.
Saucisson Neuchâtelois: a sausage eaten sliced. There is a fierce saucisson rivalry between Neuchâtel and Vaud.
Suchard Chocolate: Suchard’s industrial enterprise was born in Serrières creating a love of chocolate. The region has several well known chocolate and sweet makers.
Cheese Specialities: Try a platter of Britchon, Neuchâtel Tomme and Bleuchâtel. But be warned the smell can be overwhelming. Britchon has a semi-hard texture, Tomme is quite runny and the blue is actually mould on the Bleuchâtel.
Torée (sometimes called feux de berger): a Neuchâtel tradition that consists of preparing a big fire in a pasture and cooking sausages and potatoes in the embers. It’s traditionally done in the Autumn (after the flocks are brought in) but it can be organised at any time of year provided you find a good place. Traditionally, the sausage is wrapped in a few cabbage leaves then in damp newspaper. The fire is lit early in the morning, so by 10 o’clock it would only be a heap of embers. The sausages and potatoes are buried in these embers without any other protection. The embers are then covered with fresh pine branches which produce a column of white, sweet-smelling smoke.
Lake and river fish: Perch is ever popular, as well as a local fish called Bondelle.